I recently bought a Sigma 500 f/7.2 APO lens for approximately 110 US dollars (160 sFr.). I think this was a bargain, since the lens is reasonably sharp (at least for use on my D50) and focuses well and everything. Of course it's not the same as an expensive 500 f/4 lens, but I'm a student and can't afford that.
Anyway, I have problems in getting sharp images of wildlife (and basically everything else) whenever the light is not ideal (hehe, who would have guessed with an f/7.2?). Things are o.k. when I'm able to obtain shutter speeds of approx. 1/100 or 1/200 sec or so, but with 1/30 or similar images are almost always blurry. On a (sturdy) tripod of course.
Now, my question: What kind of maximum shutter speed can you obtain with appropriate technique? Is what I observe normal for a 500 mm lens or am I doing something wrong? I don't have mirror lock up on the D50, so that can't be tried, but I've tried with remote release, self timer, with my hands at the cam and off the cam, with my hand on top of the lens to avoid vibration. Etc, etc.
Assuming your technique is good, what may be happening is the tripod is resonating or there is some mirror slap; either of which will result in a loss of sharpness. I would suggest shooting at 1/60, or higher. You might also try hanging a weight from the tripod to damp vibrations.
Hi Basil,
with my 600 IS, I often use shutter speeds between 1/1000 and 1/4000...that said, these fast SS are really necessary only if you want to stop the motion of very fast subjects.
If you photograph a static subject, I'd recommend to use a shutter speed of *al least* 1/200, since you are using a "750mm" lens (500x1.5), and you don't have mirror lock up nor stabilization.
For animals in action, I'd recommend at least 1/400 - 1/500...the faster, the better (unless you don't want to do panning).
If you shoot in sunlight, you should get good shutter speeds shooting "wide open" (f/7.2) at ISO 400 (that is quite noise-free in modern SLR cameras).
Hanging a weight from the center post of a tripod usually does little to stabilize the camera, as it is uncoupled from the camera body. Your best bet is to lay bean bags or sand bags over the top of the lens/camera. This will definitely dampen vibrations. Doing away with the tripod and laying the camera on the ground or bean bag will also help. Additionally, using mirror lock-up is a good idea.
Somewhere I've read that shutter- and mirror-induced vibrations are killer in the longer than 1/50 sec range, especially in the 1/30 - 1/15 sec range something to do with frequency and harmonics? Further, if you've got a crop factor, the effect is even worse. If you're going to go into those time values, you may wish to consider a second support for the camera in addition to the support for the lens. Try laying camera with lens on pillow(s) on a table so both lens and body are well supported and stable and try shots at those shutter speeds at static objects; see what you get for sharpness.
- - You should NEVER shoot at a shutter speed that slow for a lens that long.
Especially with any moving object.
General rule of thumb for hand-held lenses is to shoot at, or above, with a speed equal to the length of the lens.
A 500mm lens should be used at a 500th shutter speed. 200mm lens at 200th of a sec. speed.
I would say that it is also a great rule even if using a tri-pod. YOu will get even sharper imnages then.
If you can't get that speed now, then use a faster film until you can.
If all of the shooting is done inside then use some reflectors to add more light on the subject. What kind of wildlife are you shooting inside anyway.
One other trick is when using a tripod, buy or make a bean bag and lay it over the lens. That will take up some of the vibrations when you expose.
You said in one part you shoot wildlife and somewhere else about problems with indoor set ups.
I don't read every word in these posts, so I didn't know what indoor tests have to do with outdoor wildlife.
It sounded interesting though. Maybe you should try it sometime. Just leave all your doors and windows open.
I've had all kinds of crittes in places I've lived by doing that, including Red Tailed Hawks on my front porch.
Discussion
10 repliesI recently bought a Sigma 500 f/7.2 APO lens for approximately 110 US dollars (160 sFr.). I think this was a bargain, since the lens is reasonably sharp (at least for use on my D50) and focuses well and everything. Of course it's not the same as an expensive 500 f/4 lens, but I'm a student and can't afford that.
Anyway, I have problems in getting sharp images of wildlife (and basically everything else) whenever the light is not ideal (hehe, who would have guessed with an f/7.2?). Things are o.k. when I'm able to obtain shutter speeds of approx. 1/100 or 1/200 sec or so, but with 1/30 or similar images are almost always blurry. On a (sturdy) tripod of course.
Now, my question: What kind of maximum shutter speed can you obtain with appropriate technique? Is what I observe normal for a 500 mm lens or am I doing something wrong? I don't have mirror lock up on the D50, so that can't be tried, but I've tried with remote release, self timer, with my hands at the cam and off the cam, with my hand on top of the lens to avoid vibration. Etc, etc.
Any suggestions on how to improve this?
Basil
Assuming your technique is good, what may be happening is the tripod is resonating or there is some mirror slap; either of which will result in a loss of sharpness. I would suggest shooting at 1/60, or higher. You might also try hanging a weight from the tripod to damp vibrations.
-PB
with my 600 IS, I often use shutter speeds between 1/1000 and 1/4000...that said, these fast SS are really necessary only if you want to stop the motion of very fast subjects.
If you photograph a static subject, I'd recommend to use a shutter speed of *al least* 1/200, since you are using a "750mm" lens (500x1.5), and you don't have mirror lock up nor stabilization.
For animals in action, I'd recommend at least 1/400 - 1/500...the faster, the better (unless you don't want to do panning).
If you shoot in sunlight, you should get good shutter speeds shooting "wide open" (f/7.2) at ISO 400 (that is quite noise-free in modern SLR cameras).
Thanks for your replies and suggestions. I may try adding some weight to the tripod, I'll have a look at this.
Basil
http://www.naturephotographers.net/ejp0801-1.html
Jim
Thanks! I have already made test shots indoors with the camera on a table (pretty long exposure times). Everything as sharp as I hoped for.
Basil
Especially with any moving object.
General rule of thumb for hand-held lenses is to shoot at, or above, with a speed equal to the length of the lens.
A 500mm lens should be used at a 500th shutter speed. 200mm lens at 200th of a sec. speed.
I would say that it is also a great rule even if using a tri-pod. YOu will get even sharper imnages then.
If you can't get that speed now, then use a faster film until you can.
If all of the shooting is done inside then use some reflectors to add more light on the subject. What kind of wildlife are you shooting inside anyway.
One other trick is when using a tripod, buy or make a bean bag and lay it over the lens. That will take up some of the vibrations when you expose.
Basil
I don't read every word in these posts, so I didn't know what indoor tests have to do with outdoor wildlife.
It sounded interesting though. Maybe you should try it sometime. Just leave all your doors and windows open.
I've had all kinds of crittes in places I've lived by doing that, including Red Tailed Hawks on my front porch.