Posted by Ed Williams on October 12, 2016 at 4:29 PM
I recently purchased a 1.4X Canon tele-converter which I am using with my Canon 5DIII and Canon 100-400 ISL lens. I seem to have difficulty getting a quick focus with this set-up, and when I do get a focus, it often comes out somewhat soft, especially for moving subjects. I have experimented a lot with various settings in the camera, mostly using AV setting at the largest possible aperture (unfortunately the best I can get is f6.3 to f8) with this lens. Any suggestions would be extremely welcome. Thanks, Ed
Posted by Keith Bauer on October 12, 2016 at 5:50 PM
Ed:
Is this the older version push/pull 100-400, or is the newer version II of the lens?
I've had both. I was never happy with the results using a converter on the older lens. It just wasn't crisp enough on the long end without having to stop down a bit which of course with the converter then causes the max aperture to get even smaller than f/8.
With the newer version it works much better for sharpness.
The AF speed is just going to be slower than without a converter. With that lens, as you noted, at the long end you are only able to get to f/8 and that just is not enough light to allow the AF system to operate at peak efficiency.
Posted by Ed Williams on October 12, 2016 at 8:22 PM
Keith, thank you for your insight. I do have the older push me/pull you version of the 100-400. That makes perfect sense. I really wish I had time for your workshop in December. Maybe next year.
Posted by Craig Myers on October 13, 2016 at 1:01 AM
Ed,
You might try experimenting with the AF configuration tool. It's the first section of the AF menu on the MK3. You can create custom configurations that will tweak tracking sensitivity, acceleration/deceleration tracking, and AF point auto switching. There is an article about it here: http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/tips-techniques/wildlife-techniques/specialized-af-for-action/ --This might help with quicker focusing and moving subjects.
I also have this lens. One of the things I catch myself doing is leaving the focusing range switch on the lens (the one next to the AF/MF switch near the camera body) in the wrong position for a particular shooting situation. As soon as the lens starts to labor with auto focus it's the first thing I check and 9 times out of ten it is set to the wrong distance. As soon as I correct it, the focus response immediately improves. You are probably more careful about checking these things than I am, but I thought I'd throw that out there, just in case. Not sure how any of this will affect shooting with a 1.6 TC, but . . .
Posted by Max Waugh on October 13, 2016 at 1:10 AM
As Keith said, the teleconverter works much better with the new version of the 100-400.
This may not apply to you if you are using the series II converter and/or the series I lens, but something I've heard with the new 1.4x and new lenses is that it's important to put the teleconverter on the lens first, rather than on the body. This was counter to the way I used to do it since it was simply more comfortable to get the TC on the body first, but apparently due to the way the new teleconverter communicates with the new lenses, it's best to attach it to the lens first. Something to keep in mind and perhaps get used to for future use.
Max
Posted by Lance Warley on October 13, 2016 at 12:09 PM
It can take some time to get comfortable with the tc's additional zoom reach, because you're looking at a narrower field of view than without the tc. This can be even more of an issue if you're shooting in familiar places, where you're used to the wider field of view without the tc.
This happened to me shooting bif in wetlands near my home. Standing in the same places as usual, I initially had trouble acquiring "focus lock" on bif with the tc.
Something that helps me may also help you - rather than zooming to the furthest possible reach with the tc, I start tracking the bif at half-zoom (e.g., at 200mm on a 100-400mm lens) or even at no zoom. The wider field of vision helps me acquire focus lock on the bif. Then, I zoom as far as I need, which usually means as far as possible, keeping the focus lock.
This helps on small, fast, erratically flying birds like terns and kingfishers. Hope it helps you.
Posted by John Reed on October 13, 2016 at 5:49 PM
Focusing problem may also be that at f/8 only the center point is active and you may have difficulty keepimg it on moving subject
Posted by Ed Williams on November 1, 2016 at 8:27 PM
Thanks everyone for the insights. I will see if I can apply some of these tips and see if it helps. I do have trouble especially remembering the switch the tracking distance tab from time to time Craig, you're not alone. Max, I will also try to attached the lens first to the tc and then to the camera. I have been doing it the other way around. Lance, not sure I have the motor skills (personally) to start at the lower zoom level and then zoom out, but I will try it.
Discussion
7 repliesExample.
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Is this the older version push/pull 100-400, or is the newer version II of the lens?
I've had both. I was never happy with the results using a converter on the older lens. It just wasn't crisp enough on the long end without having to stop down a bit which of course with the converter then causes the max aperture to get even smaller than f/8.
With the newer version it works much better for sharpness.
The AF speed is just going to be slower than without a converter. With that lens, as you noted, at the long end you are only able to get to f/8 and that just is not enough light to allow the AF system to operate at peak efficiency.
You might try experimenting with the AF configuration tool. It's the first section of the AF menu on the MK3. You can create custom configurations that will tweak tracking sensitivity, acceleration/deceleration tracking, and AF point auto switching. There is an article about it here: http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/tips-techniques/wildlife-techniques/specialized-af-for-action/ --This might help with quicker focusing and moving subjects.
I also have this lens. One of the things I catch myself doing is leaving the focusing range switch on the lens (the one next to the AF/MF switch near the camera body) in the wrong position for a particular shooting situation. As soon as the lens starts to labor with auto focus it's the first thing I check and 9 times out of ten it is set to the wrong distance. As soon as I correct it, the focus response immediately improves. You are probably more careful about checking these things than I am, but I thought I'd throw that out there, just in case. Not sure how any of this will affect shooting with a 1.6 TC, but . . .
This may not apply to you if you are using the series II converter and/or the series I lens, but something I've heard with the new 1.4x and new lenses is that it's important to put the teleconverter on the lens first, rather than on the body. This was counter to the way I used to do it since it was simply more comfortable to get the TC on the body first, but apparently due to the way the new teleconverter communicates with the new lenses, it's best to attach it to the lens first. Something to keep in mind and perhaps get used to for future use.
Max
This happened to me shooting bif in wetlands near my home. Standing in the same places as usual, I initially had trouble acquiring "focus lock" on bif with the tc.
Something that helps me may also help you - rather than zooming to the furthest possible reach with the tc, I start tracking the bif at half-zoom (e.g., at 200mm on a 100-400mm lens) or even at no zoom. The wider field of vision helps me acquire focus lock on the bif. Then, I zoom as far as I need, which usually means as far as possible, keeping the focus lock.
This helps on small, fast, erratically flying birds like terns and kingfishers. Hope it helps you.