In the 10+ years I've been visiting the Antelope Canyons the rules and regulations have changed dramatically. This year has been no exception.
As I discovered 2 weeks ago, new rules were implemented regarding access to many of the slot canyons near Page. As a result, a surprising number of tour operators I have used in the past have now shut their doors. Be advised that the remaining tour operators are now completely booked weeks, if not months, in advance.
Starting this year (and regardless what the websites say), Photographer's Passes have been eliminated. If you want to take pictures in Antelope, Lower Antelope, and many of the other slot canyons, you must sign up for a Photo Tour with a guide. This generally runs $80 + the $8 Tribal Park fee, for a total of $88 per tour/canyon. In addition to being more expensive, your time in the slots is more structured now.
Observations regarding (Upper) Antelope Canyon:
It completely sucks. For some time now it has been a poor photo experience but one that resulted in great images. This is no longer the case. It's close-quarter, combat photography at its worst. Although always crowded, the Navajo guides used to work with each other to keep their groups out of the shot long enough for the photo groups to get a couple of exposures. Now, the guides openly bad-mouth and argue with each other. There is no spirit of cooperation, which makes getting a decent exposure without some part of a tourist throng in the background exceedingly difficult. I was told by a couple of guides that it will only get worse as the season wears on because tourist season was just starting and not nearly in full-swing yet.
Observations regarding Lower Antelope Canyon:
Despite the elimination of Photo Passes, it's not too bad. In addition to Ken's tours, there is also another tour group operating in Lower Antelope now. Fortunately, both groups work together so the photo experience can still be pleasant (even if it feels rushed at times). The tour operators start tours from opposite ends of the canyon, each at 20 minute intervals. This really helped keep the cluster down and gave us acceptable amounts of time to find our own shots and take them without interruption. As an additional observation, Ken's is constructing an actual building (that is almost complete) that will replace the shed they've used for many years now.
A note about Horseshoe Bend:
Surprisingly crowded at sunset. The parking lot has been expanded to accommodate more cars and the result is that a large part of the bend is covered with people (think Maroon Bells in autumn, but only 1 layer of people deep). If you don't get there really early, you may find yourself trying to wedge in between European tourists smoking like they have stock in Phillip Morris and families with children so ill-behaved that you may find yourself trying to determine how to nudge them over the edge without getting caught.
So, if you're heading to Page, do yourself a favor and be prepared for this year's conditions.
CAZ
Posted by Phillip Noll on April 2, 2015 at 2:31 PM
That sucks. I'm not paying $80 to spend a few minutes in a slot canyon. Last time I was there (Dec 2010) Lower Antelope canyon cost me $20 and they told me (at the shed) to stay as long as I liked. I saw two other people in an hour. Guess those days are over. Arches is also a zoo in the summer. It's getting to the point where I am avoiding the National parks and iconic locations in search of solitude and new photo subjects.
Ken, I'd suggest getting in as soon as possible but being extremely prepared for the circumstances when you do. If you'd like to discuss specifics, send me an email so we can connect.
Yes, Phillip, it does. I must admit that while I don't like having to be so limited on a photo location, I am at the same time pleased that our park system is being well-utilized and the entrance fees are rolling in to support them.
Thanks for the update. With those restrictions and costs, I can't imagine visiting Upper or Lower Antelope Canyon again. With the old Photographer Pass rules, I found Lower Antelope to be rather enjoyable. For me, Upper Antelope was a one time experience, even 15 years ago!
Posted by Doug Koepsel on April 2, 2015 at 4:02 PM
I recently was at HB and counted over 60 vehicles in the parking lot late afternoon. I chose not to make the walk to join the horde for sunset, but instead returned for sunrise. There was only one other person on the edge when I got there 30 minutes before sunrise, and 4 tripods at sunrise.
Thanks for adding that info Doug. I suspected that sunrise would be a much better experience.
Bill, although I feel the same way you do about Upper Antelope, I hesitate to say I'll never do it again. I've said that about Mesa Arch for years now but I end up returning occasionally.
Lower was $50 two weeks ago, so I'm assuming that $80 is a typo. All of your other points are valid, however. I'm likely done with the place. I still got a few good ones in Lower, but its going to be a full on train wreck in no time, just like Upper.
Some suggestion just in case anyone is willing to overlook the photo conditions in order to attempt the $6.5 million shot :
The following tips will help you get the best shots of the light beams in Upper Antelope. (1) Stick close to your guide so you can be ready to choose the prime shooting position once you arrive at the location; (2) The prime shooting position will be kneeling in the middle of the photo location – you will have one row of people kneeling and one row on top of them (literally) taking the shot from a standing position; (3) The reason the best shooting position is kneeling is because you will want to include the place where the beam hits the ground in your shot – this is far more difficult if you are standing because parts of the people in front of you, and their gear, are likely to be in the bottom part of your shot; (4) Bring as little gear as possible with you – a camera pack can be a real pain in those limited spaces. Be prepared to enter the canyon with your tripod, camera, headlamp, and wide-angle zoom only. That’s really all you will need and you certainly don’t want to be changing lenses in a slot canyon because of the tremendous amount of very fine desert dust in the air. (These days it's thick enough to make you choke.)
If you are planning on going to Lower Antelope, you may consider asking for a top-down tour in order to get whatever light beams may be available. Since they run tours from the top-down and the bottom-up now, if you have a preference, you should discuss it with your tour operator.
Discussion
12 repliesAs I discovered 2 weeks ago, new rules were implemented regarding access to many of the slot canyons near Page. As a result, a surprising number of tour operators I have used in the past have now shut their doors. Be advised that the remaining tour operators are now completely booked weeks, if not months, in advance.
Starting this year (and regardless what the websites say), Photographer's Passes have been eliminated. If you want to take pictures in Antelope, Lower Antelope, and many of the other slot canyons, you must sign up for a Photo Tour with a guide. This generally runs $80 + the $8 Tribal Park fee, for a total of $88 per tour/canyon. In addition to being more expensive, your time in the slots is more structured now.
Observations regarding (Upper) Antelope Canyon:
It completely sucks. For some time now it has been a poor photo experience but one that resulted in great images. This is no longer the case. It's close-quarter, combat photography at its worst. Although always crowded, the Navajo guides used to work with each other to keep their groups out of the shot long enough for the photo groups to get a couple of exposures. Now, the guides openly bad-mouth and argue with each other. There is no spirit of cooperation, which makes getting a decent exposure without some part of a tourist throng in the background exceedingly difficult. I was told by a couple of guides that it will only get worse as the season wears on because tourist season was just starting and not nearly in full-swing yet.
Observations regarding Lower Antelope Canyon:
Despite the elimination of Photo Passes, it's not too bad. In addition to Ken's tours, there is also another tour group operating in Lower Antelope now. Fortunately, both groups work together so the photo experience can still be pleasant (even if it feels rushed at times). The tour operators start tours from opposite ends of the canyon, each at 20 minute intervals. This really helped keep the cluster down and gave us acceptable amounts of time to find our own shots and take them without interruption. As an additional observation, Ken's is constructing an actual building (that is almost complete) that will replace the shed they've used for many years now.
A note about Horseshoe Bend:
Surprisingly crowded at sunset. The parking lot has been expanded to accommodate more cars and the result is that a large part of the bend is covered with people (think Maroon Bells in autumn, but only 1 layer of people deep). If you don't get there really early, you may find yourself trying to wedge in between European tourists smoking like they have stock in Phillip Morris and families with children so ill-behaved that you may find yourself trying to determine how to nudge them over the edge without getting caught.
So, if you're heading to Page, do yourself a favor and be prepared for this year's conditions.
CAZ
Yes, Phillip, it does. I must admit that while I don't like having to be so limited on a photo location, I am at the same time pleased that our park system is being well-utilized and the entrance fees are rolling in to support them.
Bill, although I feel the same way you do about Upper Antelope, I hesitate to say I'll never do it again. I've said that about Mesa Arch for years now but I end up returning occasionally.
Some suggestion just in case anyone is willing to overlook the photo conditions in order to attempt the $6.5 million shot
The following tips will help you get the best shots of the light beams in Upper Antelope. (1) Stick close to your guide so you can be ready to choose the prime shooting position once you arrive at the location; (2) The prime shooting position will be kneeling in the middle of the photo location – you will have one row of people kneeling and one row on top of them (literally) taking the shot from a standing position; (3) The reason the best shooting position is kneeling is because you will want to include the place where the beam hits the ground in your shot – this is far more difficult if you are standing because parts of the people in front of you, and their gear, are likely to be in the bottom part of your shot; (4) Bring as little gear as possible with you – a camera pack can be a real pain in those limited spaces. Be prepared to enter the canyon with your tripod, camera, headlamp, and wide-angle zoom only. That’s really all you will need and you certainly don’t want to be changing lenses in a slot canyon because of the tremendous amount of very fine desert dust in the air. (These days it's thick enough to make you choke.)
If you are planning on going to Lower Antelope, you may consider asking for a top-down tour in order to get whatever light beams may be available. Since they run tours from the top-down and the bottom-up now, if you have a preference, you should discuss it with your tour operator.
Good luck!