Posted by Alan LaFaver on April 17, 2014 at 7:40 PM
I typically do not use a UV filter on my lenses. I always just leave the lens hood on as added protection. I'm also very careful with my stuff. However, I haven't owned any 'expensive' lenses that I worried too much about. I just got a 300mm f/4 and am concerned about scratches now. Know it's not too 'high end' compared to some 500-600mm glass, but it's a lot to me.
How many of you leave a UV filter on your high end lenses?
I see the recent post/question about straps and know about the Black Rapid and it's popularity. However, I want a standard strap, that's long to cross chest. I always leave a plate on the bottom of my cam. I don't trust my current cheapo strap anymore with the new lens/cam weight.
Any opinions or advice on that? I'm open to anything and value the opinions here.
I'm limited monetarily, but do appreciate quality and will spend on equipment/accessories if it's worth it. Especially on stuff that will be used long term.
Thanks,
Al
Posted by Richard Ditch on April 17, 2014 at 7:52 PM
There are no filters of any kind on any of my lenses, nor have there been on any of the lenses I've owned since the early 70's. The only time I've used UV filters on any lens was on the few times I've gone pelagic birding where everything gets coated with salt water spray. Like you I keep a proper lens hood on every lens and that has served me well over 40+ years.
Posted by Alan LaFaver on April 17, 2014 at 9:41 PM
I'm looking at the Peak Design Capture Pro and Leash strap. Anyone using this?
I keep a UV "filter" on every lens I own, from the day I get it, mostly for protection of the lens glass. Much less painful to replace a filter with a rock chip in it, than the front glass in a lens!
One flying rock chip from a passing car convinced me very quickly. I also shoot a lot of beach images, and with blowing sand.
Sandy
Posted by Hali Sowle on April 18, 2014 at 10:35 AM
I use a UV "filter" on everything that can fit a filter. I wish I could say I take meticulous care with everything but sometimes lens caps fall off, or something just happens. As Sandy said, it is much less painful to replace a filter than your front glass
Posted by Bob Maynard on April 18, 2014 at 11:34 AM
I use no filters and I've never scratched a lens, and I'm prone to climbing cliffs. etc, to get my shot.
I am not made of money.
UV filter for Blowing sand and or saltwater. Some lenses need the filter to help seal the moving parts.
UV filter for photographing friends and family, just because I don’t want to risk for free. Darned little kids…..
No UV filter for a paying gig.
Sometimes UV filter for exploring comps during the day.
Never UV filter for shooting any comp I think will be good, even if this means protecting with umbrella or otherwise and wiping the glass.
Especially no UV filter when the sun is in the comp or direct rays striking the lens.
Posted by Frederic Hore on April 18, 2014 at 12:16 PM
Personally, I think it's folly NOT to have a filter on your lens, especially with the newer Nikkor lenses with the Nano Crystal coating.
You can be as careful as you like, but sometimes Mother Nature throws you a curve ball and accidents happen. I shoot lightning storms for example, and when the wind picks up, all kinds of dust and dirt gets thrown about. Then there are water splashes, the accidental scuffing of the front element when removing the lens shade, or just plain stupid things, like when my cam fell over atop the summit of 5,115ft Mt Algonquin in the Adirondack High Peaks region of upstate New York in the middle of winter. The cam went lens first into the snow! Or even shooting in the late evening and a light dew settles on your cam, with moisture beading up on the front element.
I've also shot images in the Gobi desert of Mongolia, the sand dunes of Morocco and many other wild places where the last thing I want is even a tiny nick in the lens surface, or the exterior for that matter.
As such, when you have an investment of several thousand $$$$ in lenses, investing in a $100 B&W MRC multi-coated haze, skylight or polarizer filter is cheap insurance to protect it. You may change or upgrade camera bodies, but the lenses are what you usually keep. Plus, when you do decide to sell of some off your inventory, you will get top dollar for it if the glass is in A1 shape (assuming you have kept the boxes and packing too).
Camera Straps
While I see many people that like the Black Rapid strap, I for one will never use it for three reasons.
1. The threaded connection on the base of your camera was designed for securing it to a stable tripod, not for suspending it with the added weight a battery grip and a long lens attached, swinging about as you trek down a trail. On pro bodies, the tripod hole is machined into the magnesium body plate, which can be snapped, twisted or deformed if too much force is applied. Remember that cam falling in the snow incident mentioned above? It was a zoom lens on a Nikon FM2n film body attached to an aluminum tripod - when it took the tumble into the semi powder snow, it actually twisted the base plate, jamming the film advance mechanism!
With some "prosumer" cameras, the base plate is not even metal - its an ABS type of rigid plastic with a metal insert!
2. The Black Rapid or other strap system needs to be constantly checked to make sure it does not loosen up. If it does... there goes the camera, probably lens first! I've read the horror stories, as I'm sure some of you have too.
3. But the number one reason I will NOT use any bottom plate securing strap, is that all camera manufacturers have designed for and provided not one, but TWO secure points to attach your camera strap. Why people are reluctant to use this, I have no idea!!! If you want to have your camera slung over the opposite shoulder like a Black Rapid or similar provider, just buy a longer camera strap!
Which brings me to the camera strap I have been using faithfully for more than 20 years on all my Nikon cams, namely a Domke 1"5 inch wide mesh type with embedded rubber threads to prevent slippage off ones shoulder. The beauty of this strap is it has steel locking jaws, something like a carabiner, which allows you to easily remove the strap when you don't want it in your way, or creating vibrations by flapping about in windy conditions. And its just plain black, rather than the loud and bold iconic Nikon and Canon straps advertising the expensive cam you are sporting about - which is not a smart move in risky areas. The Domke strap:
The pic above is from 2008 while leading a photo field trip to a local harness racing track. A Nikon D300 and 80-200 2.8 lens is suspended from my shoulder with the Domke camera strap. My thanks to photographer and friend Karen Schell for supplying the photo.
I have always used either a circular polarizer (a good one like the slim Hoya NXT with max. light transmission and no distortion) or a skylight/UV filter. I put one on at day 1 on ALL my lenses.
Personally, I would never trust just the hood. Anybody who has had a rock chip their windshield on the highway will appreciate the wisdom of extra protection from blowing debris. And a good filter will also keep small dust particles out of the lens area also, not all debris scratches.
I am the one who listed the question about a good strap. I need the support and a REALLY good cushion. I've ordered the OP/TECH USA Utility Strap - Sling for $29.99 at Amazon. Plus, I took one of the reviewer's advice and ordered the Fotasy NSQS Stainless Steel Screw with Fotasy Premier Cleaning Cloth for Quick Release Neck Strap, R-Strap for $5.99.
The OP/Tech strap has 2 quick release attachments. I will attach one to the body, where a normal strap would go. And, I will attach the tripod screw attachment to the other loop and make it a longer connection. That way, my main camera support will be from the body as intended, and I will have a backup with the tripod connection.
I, like Frederic, don't want to mess up my camera tripod mount unless absolutely necessary to save my camera. I cannot imagine both quick release straps breaking at the same time. I have a Canon 60D. So, I think this should work just fine for me.
I don't use UV filters, but I do keep a polarizer on my two lenses for protection. I use 'em anyway (not all of the time, of course), so why pay more? Lens caps and hoods round out the protection. I especially wouldn't use a UV filter for making images as the image quality is compromised. May not be by much, but why bother?
I also keep my camera protected with an OpTech Neoprene Camera Pouch. I've dropped my camera on sandstone from a height of 3 ft. and this baby saved it from any damage. Crawling around narrow canyons, this pouch has paid for itself by protecting against bumps and scrapes. It goes on and off easily and is held at the base of the lens by a rubber 'O' ring.
And like Lucy, I also use the OpTech Neoprene Camera Strap and have for years. It stays on my shoulder and is quite comfortable with the little 'give' that neoprene offers.
I have UV filters on both my Nikon lenses. For my 4x5 lenses, I don't have filters on them, except when they are needed. I always keep the caps on them, and they are stored in padded pouches in my PhotoBackpacker pack.
I once had a lens with a filter on it drop and hit the ground. Filter broke and the shards of glass turned out to be the perfect thing for scratching glass lens elements. I haven't used any "protection" filter since then as I see them more as a threat than protection. I do use the lens hood and this has saved my lenses several times. I have the plastic lens cap on when not taking a shot. The lens cap is far more protection than a thin piece of glass will ever be. I have had problems with filters causing flare and screwing up shots on a number of occasions, and yes I used expensive multicoated ones. Really, I've come to think that buying an expensive multicoated filter for each lens is actually more expensive than just a repair. I've been an outdoor photographer, often in extreme conditions, for nearly 25 years and have never had a lens damaged because it had no filter. I have had one damaged because it DID have a filter on it.
Lens hoods are TREMENDOUS protection. Not only do they deflect anything harmful, they also cushion the lens if it's dropped. I've had several lenses saved by lens hoods.
Filters seem to be an emotional subject among photographers. I have used protective UV filters on shorter focal length lenses for decades. But filters can and do impact quality, but mostly on longer focal length large aperture lenses. I use UV protective filters on 200 mm f/4 and shorter lenses. But if I am in a high contrast situation, including nightscapes, even the Moon in deep twilight, I'll remove the filter. Modern lenses often have a relative flat front element and that increases the chance of reflections, and those become pretty apparent in high contrast situations, especially with dark areas around (shadows or dark twilight sky). On longer lenses (when lens aperture is greater than 50 mm diameter at focal lengths greater than about 150 mm) I use the lens hoods only. But on wide angle lenses, the lens hoods are pretty ineffective, especially when salt spray (e.g. near the ocean) or in other harsh environments. I also have dropped two lenses in my lifetime, breaking the UV filter, and a third case that dented the threads on the UV filter, In all cases, I simply unscrewed the filter and put on a new one, with zero damage to the lens. Of course use only the best filters. I never use a UV filter for night photography on any focal length lens.
I have more information on my web site about evaluating filters: http://www.clarkvision.com/articles/evaluating_filter_quality/
and protective filters: http://www.clarkvision.com/articles/protection_filters/
As I mentioned before, I always have a filter on my lenses. But, just in case my lens breaks, as in Kent's case, I have my camera and all my equipment on my State Farm policy with my jewelry. It adds only pennies to my policy, but is worth millions for my sanity. Even when I buy used equipment at a discount, I always insure for full replacement value if bought new!
Hmmm? After reading Kent's words about a broken filter damaging a front element, the real possibility of flare, and Roger's comment about reduction in image quality, I am going to rethink this. As I said above, I use UV filters on my Nikon glass, but not on my LF lenses. In fact, aside from occasional use of a polarizer or a warming filer, I don't use filters on my 4x5.
Why? Short answer: For the very reasons listed above. So, why am I keeping them on my Nikon glass? I have no idea. I suppose that's what happens when you have only two remaining brain cells, and one is showing smoke.
Discussion
16 repliesHow many of you leave a UV filter on your high end lenses?
I see the recent post/question about straps and know about the Black Rapid and it's popularity. However, I want a standard strap, that's long to cross chest. I always leave a plate on the bottom of my cam. I don't trust my current cheapo strap anymore with the new lens/cam weight.
Any opinions or advice on that? I'm open to anything and value the opinions here.
I'm limited monetarily, but do appreciate quality and will spend on equipment/accessories if it's worth it. Especially on stuff that will be used long term.
Thanks,
Al
One flying rock chip from a passing car convinced me very quickly. I also shoot a lot of beach images, and with blowing sand.
Sandy
UV filter for Blowing sand and or saltwater. Some lenses need the filter to help seal the moving parts.
UV filter for photographing friends and family, just because I don’t want to risk for free. Darned little kids…..
No UV filter for a paying gig.
Sometimes UV filter for exploring comps during the day.
Never UV filter for shooting any comp I think will be good, even if this means protecting with umbrella or otherwise and wiping the glass.
Especially no UV filter when the sun is in the comp or direct rays striking the lens.
You can be as careful as you like, but sometimes Mother Nature throws you a curve ball and accidents happen. I shoot lightning storms for example, and when the wind picks up, all kinds of dust and dirt gets thrown about. Then there are water splashes, the accidental scuffing of the front element when removing the lens shade, or just plain stupid things, like when my cam fell over atop the summit of 5,115ft Mt Algonquin in the Adirondack High Peaks region of upstate New York in the middle of winter. The cam went lens first into the snow! Or even shooting in the late evening and a light dew settles on your cam, with moisture beading up on the front element.
I've also shot images in the Gobi desert of Mongolia, the sand dunes of Morocco and many other wild places where the last thing I want is even a tiny nick in the lens surface, or the exterior for that matter.
As such, when you have an investment of several thousand $$$$ in lenses, investing in a $100 B&W MRC multi-coated haze, skylight or polarizer filter is cheap insurance to protect it. You may change or upgrade camera bodies, but the lenses are what you usually keep. Plus, when you do decide to sell of some off your inventory, you will get top dollar for it if the glass is in A1 shape (assuming you have kept the boxes and packing too).
Camera Straps
While I see many people that like the Black Rapid strap, I for one will never use it for three reasons.
1. The threaded connection on the base of your camera was designed for securing it to a stable tripod, not for suspending it with the added weight a battery grip and a long lens attached, swinging about as you trek down a trail. On pro bodies, the tripod hole is machined into the magnesium body plate, which can be snapped, twisted or deformed if too much force is applied. Remember that cam falling in the snow incident mentioned above? It was a zoom lens on a Nikon FM2n film body attached to an aluminum tripod - when it took the tumble into the semi powder snow, it actually twisted the base plate, jamming the film advance mechanism!
With some "prosumer" cameras, the base plate is not even metal - its an ABS type of rigid plastic with a metal insert!
2. The Black Rapid or other strap system needs to be constantly checked to make sure it does not loosen up. If it does... there goes the camera, probably lens first! I've read the horror stories, as I'm sure some of you have too.
3. But the number one reason I will NOT use any bottom plate securing strap, is that all camera manufacturers have designed for and provided not one, but TWO secure points to attach your camera strap. Why people are reluctant to use this, I have no idea!!! If you want to have your camera slung over the opposite shoulder like a Black Rapid or similar provider, just buy a longer camera strap!
Which brings me to the camera strap I have been using faithfully for more than 20 years on all my Nikon cams, namely a Domke 1"5 inch wide mesh type with embedded rubber threads to prevent slippage off ones shoulder. The beauty of this strap is it has steel locking jaws, something like a carabiner, which allows you to easily remove the strap when you don't want it in your way, or creating vibrations by flapping about in windy conditions. And its just plain black, rather than the loud and bold iconic Nikon and Canon straps advertising the expensive cam you are sporting about - which is not a smart move in risky areas. The Domke strap:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/16178-REG/Domke_742_6BK_1_5_Web_Camera_Strap.html
The pic above is from 2008 while leading a photo field trip to a local harness racing track. A Nikon D300 and 80-200 2.8 lens is suspended from my shoulder with the Domke camera strap. My thanks to photographer and friend Karen Schell for supplying the photo.
Hope this helps!
Cheers,
Frederic in Montreal
Personally, I would never trust just the hood. Anybody who has had a rock chip their windshield on the highway will appreciate the wisdom of extra protection from blowing debris. And a good filter will also keep small dust particles out of the lens area also, not all debris scratches.
I am the one who listed the question about a good strap. I need the support and a REALLY good cushion. I've ordered the OP/TECH USA Utility Strap - Sling for $29.99 at Amazon. Plus, I took one of the reviewer's advice and ordered the Fotasy NSQS Stainless Steel Screw with Fotasy Premier Cleaning Cloth for Quick Release Neck Strap, R-Strap for $5.99.
The OP/Tech strap has 2 quick release attachments. I will attach one to the body, where a normal strap would go. And, I will attach the tripod screw attachment to the other loop and make it a longer connection. That way, my main camera support will be from the body as intended, and I will have a backup with the tripod connection.
I, like Frederic, don't want to mess up my camera tripod mount unless absolutely necessary to save my camera. I cannot imagine both quick release straps breaking at the same time. I have a Canon 60D. So, I think this should work just fine for me.
Hope this answer helped.
I also keep my camera protected with an OpTech Neoprene Camera Pouch. I've dropped my camera on sandstone from a height of 3 ft. and this baby saved it from any damage. Crawling around narrow canyons, this pouch has paid for itself by protecting against bumps and scrapes. It goes on and off easily and is held at the base of the lens by a rubber 'O' ring.
And like Lucy, I also use the OpTech Neoprene Camera Strap and have for years. It stays on my shoulder and is quite comfortable with the little 'give' that neoprene offers.
--P
Lens hoods are TREMENDOUS protection. Not only do they deflect anything harmful, they also cushion the lens if it's dropped. I've had several lenses saved by lens hoods.
Kent in SD
Filters seem to be an emotional subject among photographers. I have used protective UV filters on shorter focal length lenses for decades. But filters can and do impact quality, but mostly on longer focal length large aperture lenses. I use UV protective filters on 200 mm f/4 and shorter lenses. But if I am in a high contrast situation, including nightscapes, even the Moon in deep twilight, I'll remove the filter. Modern lenses often have a relative flat front element and that increases the chance of reflections, and those become pretty apparent in high contrast situations, especially with dark areas around (shadows or dark twilight sky). On longer lenses (when lens aperture is greater than 50 mm diameter at focal lengths greater than about 150 mm) I use the lens hoods only. But on wide angle lenses, the lens hoods are pretty ineffective, especially when salt spray (e.g. near the ocean) or in other harsh environments. I also have dropped two lenses in my lifetime, breaking the UV filter, and a third case that dented the threads on the UV filter, In all cases, I simply unscrewed the filter and put on a new one, with zero damage to the lens. Of course use only the best filters. I never use a UV filter for night photography on any focal length lens.
I have more information on my web site about evaluating filters: http://www.clarkvision.com/articles/evaluating_filter_quality/
and protective filters: http://www.clarkvision.com/articles/protection_filters/
Roger Clark
Why? Short answer: For the very reasons listed above. So, why am I keeping them on my Nikon glass? I have no idea. I suppose that's what happens when you have only two remaining brain cells, and one is showing smoke.
Time to take 'em off the Nikkors!
--P