My first ever trip to Alaska is now less than a month away (Aug. 27th). The first week of the trip is to fly in to Anchorage and then over to Glenallen>Valdez>Fairbanks>Denali>Anchorage by September 3rd. Hope that this is doable with a small RV. Then after dropping my brother-in-law in Anchorage I have another 10 days. I am hoping to get some good fall color, mountain scenes and of course wildlife. Also, would very much like to see the northern lights. I know it is a little early in the season and that late fall and winter are better, but perhaps at 2am or 3 am there will be clear skies. Am considering either going back up to Denali for a day or so and then back down to the Kenai. Not much of a hiker anymore, my formerly broken toes ache when I hike. Any suggestions for things to note along the route will be appreciated. I can hardly wait.
Posted by David Taylor on August 1, 2011 at 12:34 AM
Looks like you are taking in quite a bit. If I could make one suggestion (you're likely to hear it over and over from other Alaskan photogs), don't try to cram too much traveling in to little time. Rather, don't cram too much travel time in. I recommend you consider limiting your locations (regionally). Focus more time in fewer locations. Yes, you won't see as many locations, but you'll get more useful time in the ones you do select. Otherwise, you'll spend the majority of your time figuring out how fast a shutter speed you'll need to freeze a moose at 50 yards while driving by at 72 mph in order to reach your next location. A 'day' in Denali NP from Anchorage is pretty rough. Expect a 4-5 hour drive (depending on stops) each way. It won't leave you with a decent amount of time in the park to explore. You could spend 3 weeks at Wonder Lake, camping out and watching the mountain 24 hours a day - and never see it once, if the weather doesn't cooperate. A trip from Anchorage to Denali to the Kenai would be a very long several days. I call a day trip to Seward (from the Anchorage/Valley area) a 'Seward-cide' run, it's 3 hours + from Wasilla to Seward, then we do a 9 hour boat ride in the Kenai Fjords, then repeat the 3-4 hour drive back home. It usually means getting up at 3 am and getting home around 11 at night. Driving a rig with an RV is going to be taxing, so be sure to schedule time appropriately, drive carefully and take your time.
The first trip will hook you, the return trips sink it in deep.
The best news is that you're allowing a little more time than most visitors. As Dave nicely illustrates, distances are huge. And sad to say, rest is important. Tired or impaired drivers are a hazard to everyone on most of those drives.
Since you're a limited hiker, I'll add a fruitful "rest stop" to your drive south from Anchorage. I don't remember the driving distance (maybe 16 miles from Anchorage) there's a natural salt lick that attracts Dall sheep down close to the road. Often you can spot it simply by the traffic jam. If no traffic jam, that's just a sign that the sheep aren't in sight of the road at the moment. They're mostly ewes and lambs rather than rams in that time period, but start watching the bluffs on the left after you pass Beluga Point and Indian. If you can find it there's a turnout on the left that's the trailhead for a short walk up into the bluffs and to the salt lick itself. You'll know it once you've stopped by the several chunks of 6x6 staked into the ground as rough steps to start the trail. Walk back in there a couple of hundred yards and you'll often find sheep not visible from the road. If you sit down and give them time rather than stalking closer, pretty quick they are unconcerned and might even approach very close.
Oh heck. It's too soon for a rest stop, but Potter Marsh just south of Anchorage is a great spot for birds. I've managed all my best Arctic Tern and grebe shots right there.
Posted by Jim DeWitt on August 9, 2011 at 11:42 PM
It sounds like you are driving north on the Richardson Highway to Fairbanks, yes? If so, you'll find good tundra colors along the Denali Highway, starting in Paxson, Alaska, west along the paved road to Tangle Lakes. Most RV contracts won't let you drive on gravel roads; if yours does, drive further to Maclaren Ridge, which offers great views of the Amphitheater Mountains and upper Rock Creek Valley, ending with a terrific view up the Maclaren valley to the Alaska Range. If you aren't allowed to drive on gravel, the best views are fro the crest at MP 12.5.
There should still be spawned out salmon on the Gulkana River north of Paxson to Summit Lake; the dead fish attract decent numbers of fish-eating birds.
In Fairbanks, be sure to visit Creamer's Refuge. Depending on weather patterns, there should be decent numbers of Sandhill Cranes left.
Be prepared for cold, wet weather, shading to snow at higher elevations. You can have spectacular sunny days; you can also have rain and fog, especially south of the Alaska Range.
As Dave and Hank have said, the distances are great and the roads not always ideal. You should have two books on your dashboard: the current edition of Milepost and George West Birder's Guide to Alaska.
Discussion
3 repliesThe first trip will hook you, the return trips sink it in deep.
Since you're a limited hiker, I'll add a fruitful "rest stop" to your drive south from Anchorage. I don't remember the driving distance (maybe 16 miles from Anchorage) there's a natural salt lick that attracts Dall sheep down close to the road. Often you can spot it simply by the traffic jam. If no traffic jam, that's just a sign that the sheep aren't in sight of the road at the moment. They're mostly ewes and lambs rather than rams in that time period, but start watching the bluffs on the left after you pass Beluga Point and Indian. If you can find it there's a turnout on the left that's the trailhead for a short walk up into the bluffs and to the salt lick itself. You'll know it once you've stopped by the several chunks of 6x6 staked into the ground as rough steps to start the trail. Walk back in there a couple of hundred yards and you'll often find sheep not visible from the road. If you sit down and give them time rather than stalking closer, pretty quick they are unconcerned and might even approach very close.
Oh heck. It's too soon for a rest stop, but Potter Marsh just south of Anchorage is a great spot for birds. I've managed all my best Arctic Tern and grebe shots right there.
There should still be spawned out salmon on the Gulkana River north of Paxson to Summit Lake; the dead fish attract decent numbers of fish-eating birds.
In Fairbanks, be sure to visit Creamer's Refuge. Depending on weather patterns, there should be decent numbers of Sandhill Cranes left.
Be prepared for cold, wet weather, shading to snow at higher elevations. You can have spectacular sunny days; you can also have rain and fog, especially south of the Alaska Range.
As Dave and Hank have said, the distances are great and the roads not always ideal. You should have two books on your dashboard: the current edition of Milepost and George West Birder's Guide to Alaska.
Enjoy!