I have a Canon 400mm f/5.6 lens and 1.4x extender that I often use for wildlife photography. During a recent visit to Yellowstone, I was photographing a Grizzly and found that about half of the shots were blurred even though I was shooting from a tripod (Slik 714 with Arca Swiss ball head). I'd like to hear from folks if this lens combo and my 5D are too heavy for this tripod or if the blurring is do to operator error? Are there "tricks" to pressing the shutter that I need to learn to improve my success rate?
I have to use a cable release with the 5D and 500mm (non-IS) lens combination or my "keeper" ratio is terribly low even with a carbon fiber tripod which is rated to hold the weight. Simple, relatively inexpensive and effective.
I don't know anything about Slik tripods but before blaming the tripod how about telling us what sort of shutter speed and aperture and ISO you were working at. Was the subject far away (so that atmospheric conditions could be a factor)? Was the subject moving? Were you trying to follow a moving subject?
Personally I can't imagine trying to use a cable release for active subjects, and I've never attached one to any of my digital cameras shooting birds or other active subjects. I much prefer to "dampen" any vibrations at slow shutter speeds by holding the camera body while I slowly depress the shutter button.
Mark, what kind of shutter speeds were you faced with? Shooting at f/8 doesn't always leave room for much shutter speed, especially in Yellowstone. OTOH, I was actually a victim of heat wave distortion while shooting a bird from 15 yards away in the park a couple weeks ago, so I suppose it's not always dark and overcast...
I've used a cable release before while shooting birds and other wildlife with my 300 f4 + 1.7X TC. Works quite well, especially on a tripod. Obviously it takes up a free hand so it isn't practical for birds in flight but can be useful. If you have a blind setup, you can put your cam on a tripod, use live-view and the cable release (with the camera set to "Quite" mode) rather nicely.
Shutter speed was 1/640 at ISO 200 and the bear was about 100 yards away. The bear was moving slowly most of the time. The tripod is carbon fiber and rated to hold the lens & camera. The autofocus doesn't work for that lens combo so my first thought was to blame my tired old eyes. I set up a test shot of a rock about 30 yards away when I got home to check the diopter adjustment of the viewfinder and it was set fine plus all shots were sharp. The main difference was that I only extended two sections of the tripod. I expect to discard most shots for esthetic reasons, but don't want to loose half to mechanical/operator problems.
1. distance: 100 yards is a lot. Getting accurate focus over a long distance can be a problem. It also gives more opportunity for shifting air to disturb the image.
That is a long distance, so the tiniest movement or rising heat will screw things up.
Don't know this tripod - what it the max weight of gear for it? You may need a sturdier tripod.
Then, minimize camera shake - lay a heavy hand/arm on the lens to help stabilize it, and if possible, hang a weight on the tripod to further stabilize it - many have hooks from the center column for this purpose. You could also achieve the same thing by hanging your backpack.
I use a cable release often, but not so much with wildlife that is moving around.
An arca-swiss ballhead , even the Z-1, with a 400 lens is a lot. The gimbal heads like the Wimberly WH-200 and its newer model are , imo, much more ideal. Others use the BH-55 from RRS and swear by it - much lighter than the wimberly and can be used with all lenses, light or heavy.
Just some other things to consider...
Sandy .
Mark, I use that combo a lot with great results but still get some some blurred shots due to lack of auto focus. In my case I blame my old eyes and if your subject is moving it is harder to get accurate focus. Can't wait until the new 200-400IS with built in TC comes out.
Discussion
8 repliesPersonally I can't imagine trying to use a cable release for active subjects, and I've never attached one to any of my digital cameras shooting birds or other active subjects. I much prefer to "dampen" any vibrations at slow shutter speeds by holding the camera body while I slowly depress the shutter button.
Max
I've used a cable release before while shooting birds and other wildlife with my 300 f4 + 1.7X TC. Works quite well, especially on a tripod. Obviously it takes up a free hand so it isn't practical for birds in flight but can be useful. If you have a blind setup, you can put your cam on a tripod, use live-view and the cable release (with the camera set to "Quite" mode) rather nicely.
1. distance: 100 yards is a lot. Getting accurate focus over a long distance can be a problem. It also gives more opportunity for shifting air to disturb the image.
2. manual focus.
3. less stability from the extended tripod legs.
Don't know this tripod - what it the max weight of gear for it? You may need a sturdier tripod.
Then, minimize camera shake - lay a heavy hand/arm on the lens to help stabilize it, and if possible, hang a weight on the tripod to further stabilize it - many have hooks from the center column for this purpose. You could also achieve the same thing by hanging your backpack.
I use a cable release often, but not so much with wildlife that is moving around.
An arca-swiss ballhead , even the Z-1, with a 400 lens is a lot. The gimbal heads like the Wimberly WH-200 and its newer model are , imo, much more ideal. Others use the BH-55 from RRS and swear by it - much lighter than the wimberly and can be used with all lenses, light or heavy.
Just some other things to consider...
Sandy .