Hi All. I am sure this has been discussed before, but I couldn't find a distinct discussion. I have been printing my images on an ink jet printer (Canon i9900). I use only the highest grade of Canon paper when I display images in frames. I have noticed that after I mat and frame them they soner or later get wrinkles. They are not big, more like gentle waves visible if the light is just right.
How can I avoid this? I currently place tape at the corners and centers of the edges of the print fastening it to the back of the mat. The mat and print are then placed in the frame.
I thought about trying to back the print with some kind of backing, but there is often not enough room in the frame for mat, pring and extra backing. Besides, what's to stop the print from waving anyway, even with a backing behind it?
Since I am just learning this stuff andy input will help a lot.
For small-to-medium print sizes you can use T-hinges. Place a small piece of tape on the back of the print facing up near each corner, then place a horizontal piece of tape over it facing the back board.
Do NOT place another piece of tape in the center (or anywhere else along the edge). The print will always expand and contract due to temperature and humidity and needs room to flex.
For larger prints yo may need to dry/wet mount the print to the back board to prevent buckling.
Guy
Posted by Jack Graham on April 2, 2006 at 10:34 PM
Ed,
Guy is 100% correct.... most if not all good framing places have the press that literally sucks the air from behind the print. (You may think you can get it all but you can't). Fortunately this process is usually just a few dollars & will solve your problem!.
I use 3M PMA mounting adhesive that comes in large rolls. It mounts the entire photo to your backing board without heat. You peel one side and stick it to your print, cut to size, and then peel the other side and stick it to your board. It has worked very well for me.
Posted by Martin Ziese on April 3, 2006 at 10:02 AM
Ed,
As Guy mentioned, most photographic paper for inkjets is comprised of either buffered wood pulp or rag pulp. Rag pulp as the name implies is derived from cotton fibers. The same is also true with most mat boards. Both wood and rag are susceptible to temperature and humidity changes. If you live in an area the gets hot and humid at some point during the year the wood/rag will absorb some of the moisture that is in the air and will expand. Then if your climate changes during the winter, usually dryer air because of heating, this causes the pulp in the paper and mat board to lose the moisture that was collected during the warmer/ humid months. This is what causes the wrinkling.
As Guy mentioned, the T-hinges will work. When I make a print I always leave a quarter inch border all around my print. I have been very successful by using one piece of acid free artist tape applied to the top center portion of the border, which is then pressed onto the back of the mat board. This allows the paper and mat board to swell and shrink and in over 10 years of using this method, I have never had a print wrinkle on me.
Discussion
5 repliesHow can I avoid this? I currently place tape at the corners and centers of the edges of the print fastening it to the back of the mat. The mat and print are then placed in the frame.
I thought about trying to back the print with some kind of backing, but there is often not enough room in the frame for mat, pring and extra backing. Besides, what's to stop the print from waving anyway, even with a backing behind it?
Since I am just learning this stuff andy input will help a lot.
Thanks
Do NOT place another piece of tape in the center (or anywhere else along the edge). The print will always expand and contract due to temperature and humidity and needs room to flex.
For larger prints yo may need to dry/wet mount the print to the back board to prevent buckling.
Guy
Guy is 100% correct.... most if not all good framing places have the press that literally sucks the air from behind the print. (You may think you can get it all but you can't). Fortunately this process is usually just a few dollars & will solve your problem!.
JG
As Guy mentioned, most photographic paper for inkjets is comprised of either buffered wood pulp or rag pulp. Rag pulp as the name implies is derived from cotton fibers. The same is also true with most mat boards. Both wood and rag are susceptible to temperature and humidity changes. If you live in an area the gets hot and humid at some point during the year the wood/rag will absorb some of the moisture that is in the air and will expand. Then if your climate changes during the winter, usually dryer air because of heating, this causes the pulp in the paper and mat board to lose the moisture that was collected during the warmer/ humid months. This is what causes the wrinkling.
As Guy mentioned, the T-hinges will work. When I make a print I always leave a quarter inch border all around my print. I have been very successful by using one piece of acid free artist tape applied to the top center portion of the border, which is then pressed onto the back of the mat board. This allows the paper and mat board to swell and shrink and in over 10 years of using this method, I have never had a print wrinkle on me.
Good luck with you next mounting