Posted by Kevin Allen on September 6, 2010 at 12:31 AM
Hi there. I really like taking nature photos. I have a Canon 50D. Do any of you use filters on your lens to make your photo look better. Like when its really sunny and the colors are washed out?
Posted by Paul DeCesare on September 6, 2010 at 5:50 AM
Kevin, there are two filters you really need, a circular polarizer and a graduated neutral density. Here's a great article by Darwin Wiggett that explains it very well.
Also, this statement may ruffle a few feathers, but here goes: if you have either a skylight or UV "protective" filter on your lens, unscrew it and put it in the box and forget about it, they are flare-causing warts they must be stopped in our lifetime (special situations like rain or a windy beach give them worth, maybe). Only mount a filter that you need.
You didn't mention the lens you are using. The glass you mount can be the single most important factor for great image quality, don't skimp there. You did mention "when it's really sunny", and that is the toughest light to shoot in, IMO. But if you must, mount your lens shade, because stopping indirect light shining across your lens will preserve your contrast.
Not so much a filter, but one of the best investments you can make for lenses if they aren't already equipped is a lens hood. Sometimes the "washed out" look is due to sunlight hitting the front of your lens, even at an angle. If you use a lens hood and/or your hand to cast a shadow on the front glass, it very often improves an image.
I rarely use filters, but when I do I use the following...
Graduated Neutral Density
81-A or 81-B warming filter(s)
Polarizer
The 81-series filters will reduce some of the blue if you are shooting under a blue sky. This will help a bit with color saturation. You may need to increase exposure by one-third of a stop,
Use multi-coated, high quality filters. I use B&W-Pro series for my 81's and polarizer. My NDGrads are Singh-Ray.
A good lens shade is a must, as Paul indicates. Stray light entering a lens is a contrast killer, especially when the lens axis approaches the light source axis.
I also agree with Paul about Skylight or UV filters--they usually are not needed. However, you may find one useful at high altitudes and/or when dust or water vapor is present.
--P
Posted by David Bostedo on September 6, 2010 at 1:38 PM
Preston - Are you using the warming filters with film? That makes sense, but I would say you don't need them at all with digital. (You might like them, but they can be replicated in software. The others can not.) I just want to be clear for Kevin's benefit.
I also don't think you need GND filters, except in the case of moving objects. If you're willing to take multiple exposures and combine them, it's very straight forward to replicate. (See this tutorial)
I definitely agree on the polarizer - there's no other way to do what it does.
And regular ND filters are useful too if you need longer shutter speeds/wider apertures than you could otherwise get.
David: Yes, I use 81's with film. While filter effects can be done in software, I suppose I'm a believer in doing as much 'in-camera' as possible. That's why I suggested them.
--P
Posted by Lon Overacker on September 6, 2010 at 5:28 PM
Like when its really sunny and the colors are washed out?
Kevin, Outside of a polarizer, I can't think of any filter that will make your pictures better in these conditions. I mean you said it - real sunny and colors wash out. And a polarizer is not going to work in all situations and as you may know, it's directional - in other words, it has maximum effect when you're camera/lens is pointed 90deg from the direction of the sun. Otherwise, all you're doing is subtraction 2 stops of light.
Learn to recognize quality light AND how and what to compose in less than optimal light. For example, mid-day on a bright blue clear day, is a day to go under a canopy of trees - shoot straight up and get the classic sun star with back lit leaves, look for interesting details in shade etc.
Your best filter is your mind filter. Hey, I just made that up! Don't anyone steal that!
Good luck,
Lon
Posted by Kevin Allen on September 6, 2010 at 10:50 PM
How do you use digital filters when editing with photoshop. Any articles out there?
Other than the polarizer that i use often, I got rid of all my filters when I switched to digital.
Skill using Photoshop can replace need for filters.
"When it's really sunny out" is usually not a good time to shoot, unless it is early morning or late afternoon. Colors are easily washed out.
As far as "Digital Filters" - do a web search and you'll find reams of info - books, articles, etc.
Always lots to learn!
Have fun -
Sandy r
Posted by David Bostedo on September 7, 2010 at 5:56 PM
David: Yes, I use 81's with film. While filter effects can be done in software, I suppose I'm a believer in doing as much 'in-camera' as possible. That's why I suggested them.
Preston - I think that doing as much in camera as possible is a perfectly good point of view - and a lot of people like GNDs because of that. (I don't, but that's another story.)
The thing is, warming images with digital is so incredibly easy, and such a standard part of most people work flow anyway (either via white balance adjustments or other color correction - especially with RAW files) that it's not really a matter of doing it in camera vs. out of camera. You're going to be adjusting things anyway, so why not take 1/2 a second and do it on the computer?
With film, even with scanning, you don't have quite the same lee-way that you do with RAW - although you could still easily warm things on the computer.
my 2 cents here concerning either warm filters or changing color temperature in raw converters (or elsewhere): I truly believe, its much better to work on seperate colors, warm them or cool them how you wish. Therefore do it in PS or any software you might use. the reason is, if you change the whole scene, you usually end up with a soup of colors, that is almost always a compromise. I used warming filters regularily (81B)when I started out (because it was like a common "wisdom" then), now I actually hate the look of these images. In a good color photograph a mix between warm and cool colors is often essential in making it work. PS is really a vast improvement over filters here!
georg
"I used warming filters regularily (81B)when I started out (because it was like a common "wisdom" then), now I actually hate the look of these images. "
I did, too, Georg. But I learned that under certain circumstances the 81-series gave me a transparency or neg that was actually easier to work with in PS and/or gave me the look I vizualized.. I think it is true that the use of any filtration, whether in-camera or in post processing, must be carefully considered.
"[i]In a good color photograph a mix between warm and cool colors is often essential in making it work.{/i]"
Absolutely! Therefore, when I use a filter such as an 81A or B I am looking to make sure I have the right balance between warm and cool.
As I said earlier: At this point in time I rarely use any kind of in-camera filtration with my LF color work. I prefer to make needed adjustments in my scan, and in Photo Shop.
I might try to use the filters available in PS, but I usually use a Selective Color adjustment layer on selections in order to warm up, or cool off areas.
One of the great things about photography is the flexibility of the tools and processes that enable us to achieve the look and feel we want. There really is no 'right' or 'wrong' answer. It all depends upon our knowledge of the medium, the tools available and our experience with them that enables us to achieve our goals.
Preston, I totally agree. I always overdid it with my desire to warm everything up. I used to think all images should have that late/early sun feeling to it.
"I might try to use the filters available in PS, but I usually use a Selective Color adjustment layer on selections in order to warm up, or cool off areas."
exactly - thats the best way, imo!
georg
Posted by Marko Trebušak on September 10, 2010 at 5:47 AM
Georg I really hate the 81 series. To me it always looked wired kind of yellow. So changed to Lee's Coral #2 graduated filter. I can add it to parts I wish and in amount I wish. Not completely Photoshop flexibility, but I like the effect. But then, I'm only using it while photographing transparencies (not that much).
No. Sometimes a ND filter to lengthen exposures for cloud streaking and other effects and sometimes a polarizer to take glare off of water or darken a sky but that's about it.
Discussion
14 repliesAlso, this statement may ruffle a few feathers, but here goes: if you have either a skylight or UV "protective" filter on your lens, unscrew it and put it in the box and forget about it, they are flare-causing warts they must be stopped in our lifetime (special situations like rain or a windy beach give them worth, maybe). Only mount a filter that you need.
You didn't mention the lens you are using. The glass you mount can be the single most important factor for great image quality, don't skimp there. You did mention "when it's really sunny", and that is the toughest light to shoot in, IMO. But if you must, mount your lens shade, because stopping indirect light shining across your lens will preserve your contrast.
Hope that helps!
Graduated Neutral Density
81-A or 81-B warming filter(s)
Polarizer
The 81-series filters will reduce some of the blue if you are shooting under a blue sky. This will help a bit with color saturation. You may need to increase exposure by one-third of a stop,
Use multi-coated, high quality filters. I use B&W-Pro series for my 81's and polarizer. My NDGrads are Singh-Ray.
A good lens shade is a must, as Paul indicates. Stray light entering a lens is a contrast killer, especially when the lens axis approaches the light source axis.
I also agree with Paul about Skylight or UV filters--they usually are not needed. However, you may find one useful at high altitudes and/or when dust or water vapor is present.
--P
I also don't think you need GND filters, except in the case of moving objects. If you're willing to take multiple exposures and combine them, it's very straight forward to replicate. (See this tutorial)
I definitely agree on the polarizer - there's no other way to do what it does.
And regular ND filters are useful too if you need longer shutter speeds/wider apertures than you could otherwise get.
--P
Kevin, Outside of a polarizer, I can't think of any filter that will make your pictures better in these conditions. I mean you said it - real sunny and colors wash out. And a polarizer is not going to work in all situations and as you may know, it's directional - in other words, it has maximum effect when you're camera/lens is pointed 90deg from the direction of the sun. Otherwise, all you're doing is subtraction 2 stops of light.
Learn to recognize quality light AND how and what to compose in less than optimal light. For example, mid-day on a bright blue clear day, is a day to go under a canopy of trees - shoot straight up and get the classic sun star with back lit leaves, look for interesting details in shade etc.
Your best filter is your mind filter. Hey, I just made that up! Don't anyone steal that!
Good luck,
Lon
Skill using Photoshop can replace need for filters.
"When it's really sunny out" is usually not a good time to shoot, unless it is early morning or late afternoon. Colors are easily washed out.
As far as "Digital Filters" - do a web search and you'll find reams of info - books, articles, etc.
Always lots to learn!
Have fun -
Sandy r
Preston - I think that doing as much in camera as possible is a perfectly good point of view - and a lot of people like GNDs because of that. (I don't, but that's another story.)
The thing is, warming images with digital is so incredibly easy, and such a standard part of most people work flow anyway (either via white balance adjustments or other color correction - especially with RAW files) that it's not really a matter of doing it in camera vs. out of camera. You're going to be adjusting things anyway, so why not take 1/2 a second and do it on the computer?
With film, even with scanning, you don't have quite the same lee-way that you do with RAW - although you could still easily warm things on the computer.
georg
I did, too, Georg. But I learned that under certain circumstances the 81-series gave me a transparency or neg that was actually easier to work with in PS and/or gave me the look I vizualized.. I think it is true that the use of any filtration, whether in-camera or in post processing, must be carefully considered.
"[i]In a good color photograph a mix between warm and cool colors is often essential in making it work.{/i]"
Absolutely! Therefore, when I use a filter such as an 81A or B I am looking to make sure I have the right balance between warm and cool.
As I said earlier: At this point in time I rarely use any kind of in-camera filtration with my LF color work. I prefer to make needed adjustments in my scan, and in Photo Shop.
I might try to use the filters available in PS, but I usually use a Selective Color adjustment layer on selections in order to warm up, or cool off areas.
One of the great things about photography is the flexibility of the tools and processes that enable us to achieve the look and feel we want. There really is no 'right' or 'wrong' answer. It all depends upon our knowledge of the medium, the tools available and our experience with them that enables us to achieve our goals.
--P
"I might try to use the filters available in PS, but I usually use a Selective Color adjustment layer on selections in order to warm up, or cool off areas."
exactly - thats the best way, imo!
georg
Cheers,
Marko