I really like some of the low light images I see posted in the ESS gallery. I've tried taking shots in low light and have found composition almost impossible. Using GND filters and CP's of course worsens the problem. I just can't see what I'm shooting, it's too dark, specifically foregrounds. I typically use live view. When I have the exposure set the way I think I want it and focus the LCD or viewfinder lightens briefly and then goes dark, not allowing me to check the composition thoroughly. I've got to be missing something.
I believe most people who shoot in low light have planned their compositions well before it gets dark. That's how I operate. You can use live view to focus, otherwise I often switch to manual when I know the autofocus is not going to work.
Same as Kah Kit. Wherever and whenever possible I compose before it's too dark. If it's getting really dark and the foreground is my problem, I watch through the viewfinder and make adjustments as I explore the foreground the beam of my flashlight for comp elements and framing, but that's limited to near foreground within range of the particular light I'm lugging.
Composing before it gets too dark to see easily works well as long as you're shooting at the end of the day. It's not so effective in pre-sunrise conditions, for obvious reasons.
In the latter scenario, I'd recommend a couple of tactics. When I was shooting film, I would simply peer through the viewfinder for a long stretch of time, giving my eyes the opportunity to adjust to the dark conditions. It's surprising how much more you can see once you're acclimated to the lack of light (and, of course, it's getting incrementally lighter by the minute at this time of the day).
With today's digital cameras, I've found the above to be largely unnecessary. I'd recommend firing off a test shot or two and examining the composition on the LCD. It's a bit of a hit-or-miss proposition, but you should be able to adjust the comp by studying the test results.
Posted by Matt Anderson on July 15, 2010 at 11:08 AM
Plan your Vision
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ETTR and readjust in Post for correct mood you intend. (minimizes noise, usually you have 2 stops head room)
Another trick I learned from some of the masters is to shoot a couple of test shots at really high ISO settings for tests - they'll be full of noise but they are only for tests. This way, you can have short shutter speed lengths, and a sample on the viewfinder. If you shoot at 6400 ISO for four seconds, and like the exposure, then drop to 1200 ISO and slow down the shutter speed by a factor of four to 16 seconds for the same exposure with less noise.
Kevin Adams shared that a great starting point with the test shots was F4 at 20-30 seconds at 1600-2000 ISO for night shots. You can then adjust as necessary. Anything beyond 20-25 seconds of exposure (depending on the focal length of your lens) is going to generate star trails. You may or may not want star streaks...
Another trick I learned from some of the masters is to shoot a couple of test shots at really high ISO settings for tests - they'll be full of noise but they are only for tests. This way, you can have short shutter speed lengths, and a sample on the viewfinder. If you shoot at 6400 ISO for four seconds, and like the exposure, then drop to 1200 ISO and slow down the shutter speed by a factor of four to 16 seconds for the same exposure with less noise.
One more thing to add, in case you are doing it (and I have seen it down with the obvious end results and complaints). Remove the CP and NDGs until after the scene is composed and everything locked down.
Posted by David Taylor on July 16, 2010 at 7:32 PM
I agree with others, I'll jack the ISO up to the max just to get some sample compositions before I take the "real thing". If I'm shooting near my car, I also carry a fully charged HIGH POWER spotting flashlight. One of the ones with the big grips that can blind people at 60 miles
These are great for verifying focus in very dark situations, such as when I shoot northern lights.
Discussion
9 repliesIn the latter scenario, I'd recommend a couple of tactics. When I was shooting film, I would simply peer through the viewfinder for a long stretch of time, giving my eyes the opportunity to adjust to the dark conditions. It's surprising how much more you can see once you're acclimated to the lack of light (and, of course, it's getting incrementally lighter by the minute at this time of the day).
With today's digital cameras, I've found the above to be largely unnecessary. I'd recommend firing off a test shot or two and examining the composition on the LCD. It's a bit of a hit-or-miss proposition, but you should be able to adjust the comp by studying the test results.
Bracket Bracket Bracket
ETTR and readjust in Post for correct mood you intend. (minimizes noise, usually you have 2 stops head room)
Kevin Adams shared that a great starting point with the test shots was F4 at 20-30 seconds at 1600-2000 ISO for night shots. You can then adjust as necessary. Anything beyond 20-25 seconds of exposure (depending on the focal length of your lens) is going to generate star trails. You may or may not want star streaks...
Brilliant! Thanks Wick, for passing that along.
These are great for verifying focus in very dark situations, such as when I shoot northern lights.