D70? D70s? D80? or...Repair

Hi all.

Well, my rig hit the ground tonight , first time for me for something like this since I dropped a lens several years ago. I thought my D70 and Sigma 180 was tight in my Bogen head and I was trying to get the tripod open. It feel from about four feet. The bottom of the camera is cracked really bad, it worked after, but I worry that it won't for long until the bottom works its way off enough that the battery will not make contact.

So what would you do? Fix it (I am guessing at least $250 to get it fixed), get another used D70, get a used D70s (I saw that Kent Staubus suggested NOT getting a D70s in another thread...why?), or get a new D80? While the extra MP would be nice...I do not print all that often (though I should, and in the future I might, so having the extra MP would be nice).

While we are on the topic, I have had a terrible time lately, making sure that my rig is secure on the head (that the QR plate is secure). Would an A-S Style QR make this easier? I realize in this case sliding in the camera may make it more sure that the QR plate is secure rather than 'snapping' it into place. Is that true?

Any thoughts for me?

Thanks.

Nathan 'Ticked at myself in Lehi UT'

Nathan, I suggest sending it to Nikon for a quote and deciding based on the repair cost estimate. It may be less than you think.

If you do decide to buy, another option are the Fuji S2 or S3. These have a Nikon mount and I believe have higher resolution, though I may be mistaken.

Guy

Hi Agree with Guy about the quote, while I wouldn't suggest the Fuji - the resolution is around 6 mp (12 is interpolated) and they are pretty slow.

I actually meant resolving power (megapixels don't really tell the whole story). The Fuji S2 can resolve 1800lph (horizontal) and 1700lph (vertical), compared to the D70 at 1600 and 1450 respectively, at least according to the DPReview test, so it does have significantly better resolution.

Guy

Thanks for the suggestions Guy and Juza. I had not thought about the Fuji (at least the S2), it just seemed like the technology would be older. Seems that the S3 is out of my price range.

I think I will check with Nikon, I just hope my camera will last through fall color season. Last year at the same time my camera was being fixed from the green light of death. I DO NOT want to shoot with film again this year (though that may be my only option).

Thanks again.

Nathan

Nathan, good ideas above about getting the price quote. If the repair cost is relatively low, you've answered your own question.

If not...that's a much tougher question to answer. The D80, for instance, sounds like a very nice camera based on what I've read and, theoretically, would be a significant upgrade from the D70, but: a) the proof is in the pudding; I'd want to read some postproduction reviews from reliable sources before committing to it; and b) who knows how long it will take you to get one. It took me nearly four months to get a D200 after placing myself on five different wait lists.

I've never used the S2 or S3 that Guy mentions, though I was acquainted with someone who had the S2 (since replaced by the D200, I believe). He seemed relatively satisfied with it, though of course there are some operational differences between the Fuji and Nikon bodies that you'd have to adapt to. I believe that the S3 is actually more sluggish than the S2...if I recall correctly, Hank P. has extensive experience with the Fuji line and can weigh in with more suggestions.

On the matter of the QR options...I had a Bogen QR system before moving to an Arac-Swiss style choice (Kirk) roughly five years ago...and, yes, in my view, the A-S design is a LOT more secure than the Bogen approach. I never had a camera or lens "pop off" and fall out of the Bogen head cavity but there were several occasions when I thought the system was locked down when it wasn't. I've never had that happen with the A-S style QR system. I wouldn't be at all surprised if you found a significant improvement in peace of mind by making a comprable move (i.e. Bogen to A-S style); it definitely had that effect when I did so.

Best of luck.

--Kerry

I hate it when stuff like that happens. My suggestions below don't sound very sympathetic, but I really am sorry to hear about your bad experience with gravity.

Tough call on the repair. If it were me, well, if it were my camera, I would probably duct tape the crack on my bottom and keep saving for a D200.

The Arca-Swiss quick release system is great, especially with the number of spiffy accessories available now, but it's expensive to get into. I'm not sure if it's any more fool proof. You have to do what I did: <b>try</b> to be less of a fool. I am neurotic about confirming that my camera is secure whenever I remount it on the tripod. Now all I have to do is stop dropping the darn tripod with camera attached....(did that twice with my 20/2.8).

Pete D.

If it were me, well, if it were my camera, I would probably duct tape the crack on my bottom and keep saving for a D200.

You know, Pete, if you really do duct tape the crack on your bottom, the last thing you'll be worried about is saving for a D200. No more donuts either.

(I'm sorry, I couldn't resist.)

You mean that crack is supposed to be there? Hurray! I'm not broken! I'm just broke.

Pete D. ---- still saving for a D200.

LOL! I really needed that Pete and Kerry! For now, I have used 'improvised photography equipment repair devices' (a couple of yellow rubber bands) to hold the one side up a little bit better. I might try some duct tape, though I will be sure of which crack I use it on!

Thanks for the A-S QR System suggestions. I have wanted a new ball head, so I might have to think more about that. I thought that I was being fairly neurotic at trying to make sure that I had the camera securely attached to the tripod. I guess I need to be more so! I have not yet dropped the rig on the tripod, but I can see how that would happen.

Edit: Oh yah, and the other trick now is going to be attaching the camera to the tripod on my non-collared lenses. There is some flex in the bottom of the body, though duct taping might help...

Thanks again for the thoughts.

Nathan

So sorry about this! Did you have the camera insured?? If so, this is probably a covered loss. Hope you get it worked out soon!

Duct tape sounds like a good solution to me, at least until you can get a quote for repairs.

I've used the Bogen Hex QR plate and currently use the RRS lever release plate. Neither are foolproof. I've never had any problem with either however. Of the two, I would say I think the lever release is more foolproof than the Bogen OR the AS screw plates. At least with the lever release you can visually tell immediately if the plate is loose. With the screw plates, I think that would be much harder to tell. As far as something grabbing the lever and releasing it, anything's possible, but I think that's only a VERY slight possibility.

Thanks Bill and Alice. I wish now that I did have it insured. With my homeowner's policy I am sure that the deductible in this case is most likely more than the repair would be (I think our deductible is $500). Thanks for the thoughts on the QR systems.

Nathan

The D80 has one significant advantage over the D70, and it's not the pixels. It has a form of mirror lock up which could conceivably help out in macro photography. The Nikon D70/80 cameras will run the state-of-art Nikon SB-800 flash, the Fuji will not (I think.) If it were me, I'd simply duct tape the sucker after trying to work a little plastic cement into the crack, and keep saving my money. But then, everyone knows what cheapskate -I- am.

As for tripod heads, the one to get is the AcraTech with the detent pin. It takes AS mounts and has a little pin that keeps a camera from popping off accidentally. For up to 26 pound loads, it's one of the best options.

Might check to see what the repair cost is on the D70 if you can do so without sending in. (Call KEH repair for a quote.) If it's reasonable, you could have it repaired to make it resaleable on eBay.


Kent in SD

So Nathan, any info back from Nikon or any decision yet?

Thanks for asking Bill. I have decided to try to hang on through the fall, and then decide. The main time for fall shooting is through the middle of October. Thus far, I have a couple of elastic bands that are around the right side, which hold the bottom on pretty well. If need be, I will add some duct tape.

Thanks for the suggestions on the ball head Kent. I do have the SB-800, and you are right, I would need any body that I buy to work with it. No problem with being a cheapskate...although I would guess you do not fall to the extreme side of being a cheapskate.

Thanks again for the interest. If I make any other moves, I will try to update this thread.

Nathan

Nathan,

I have a good, reliable D70 (my last one to be replaced with a D200) that I plan to sell. Email me if you are interested. It has a bit over 9000 actuations and looks nearly new.

Thank you Frank and Mike. I used the camera the other day and when I use my Sigma 180 (with a lens collar) it works fine, my Tamron 24-135 also works well. When I use my 70-210 f4 I have to be very careful to use a fast SS as the bottom of the camera is not strong enough to support that lens.

Makes it seem that I need to do something sooner rather than later.

Mike, I will email you...

Nathan