Lower South Falls
by Chad Delany
This is the Lower South Falls in Silver Creek State Park. It was overcast and raining.
The aperture was set at f/22 and the lens had a focal length of 24mm on a Nikkor 14-24mm f/2.8G AF-S lens. The camera is a Nikon D700 with the ISO set at 200, which is the default.
Comments
12 commentsMarc,
I'm using Photomatix Pro to do the HDR processing. It is a bracket of 5 exposures at 1 EV steps. The key variable between the two images is what is called "smoothing" in Photomatix. As smoothing gets more negative, the image becomes more HDR-y. If you really push it, then the falls gets really dark and there is a halo around it. But it does make the moss and green ferns really glow, which is what I was trying to capture in this image. In real life, the moss really does glow when it is really overcast. For an example of a halo, you can look in the Fauna gallery at my "Elk in a Meadow". My first attempt at that pushed it too far and I got a halo around the elk. My second attempt looked more realistic.
http://www.naturephotographers.net/imagecritique/ic.cgi?a=vp&pr=141498&CGISESSID=def3e75e1c52e67c2d76f36428b3f7d6&u=28931
Cheers,
Chad
What I suggest doing instead is skipping the Photomatrix steps entirely and going strait out of RAW with this. Once in CS4 you can add as much or as little glow as desired, and still retain natural looking tonal values throughout. I have experimented with many variations of the 'Orton' effect for scenes like this, because I too understand that dreamy 'glow' is REALLY how some people's eyes interpret scenes like this. I'm one of them.
I find the traditional Orton effects and most tutorials you'll find on the web are too strong though. I want results, but in a more subtle way, such as in THIS example where I applied my Orton-like layer at 10% opacity, selectively across the scene. Additionally, it can be applied precisely to the background, foreground, waterfall, or illuminated areas, such as HERE to increase the sensation of depth.
I like to take a layer and make it a lot brighter and more contrasty, maybe with more saturation too, and apply a gaussian blur at about 40 pixel radius to a 21MP image, then layer it over the base image at 5% or so to taste. It gives me excellent control and no unwanted tonal damage, which is the source of all those 'too HDRy' comments we hear a lot.